Many years ago at the mighty age of six, I had a chance of visiting the Chamong Tea Estate, Darjeeling with my parents. Well, I do not remember much of the visit except the amazing bungalow we stayed in thanks to Mr. Ashok Lohia, dad’s client. My dad has been a tea-withering consultant for several years now and he has been constantly travelling to tea gardens and factories all over India. This time, when we planned a short family trip to Darjeeling, we squeezed in a mandatory visit to one of the oldest tea gardens of India courtesy Mr. Atul Rastogi.
Tiny Me at Chamong (1997)
Darjeeling is known as the queen of hills and for its amazing view of the Kanchenjunga range. After spending a couple of days in Darjeeling town, we came down to Kurseong to visit the magnificent Makaibari Tea Estate. The road to Makaibari is narrow and downhill. It was very cold and foggy hence we could hardly see anything in front of us. As we entered the gate of the factory, it seemed we were transported back in history. The whiff of freshly brewed tea from the cafe hit our nostrils.
Winding road to Makaibari
Makaibari tea factory is the first in the world and has been the only one without any British ownership. The estate manager, Mr. Sanjoy Das, welcomed us and gave a brief of the proceedings. We were elated to hear that the first flush was scheduled for plucking on that very day! My dad recalled that the first plucking in Darjeeling commences from the full moon day of Holi. The manager explained that the first plucking is very important; utmost precision and care has to be taken, as it would determine the future growth of the bushes.
Makaibari’s very own ATV
After a historical background, the Manager arranged our visit to tea garden to witness the plucking firsthand. The Assistant Manager of the garden met us and took us through the slopes while explaining the importance of various aspects of plucking. A tea shoot is plucked with two leaves and a bud from the top of the stem. Every plucking should have two leaves and a bud important for making a perfect cup. He also explained how the plants are regularly pruned to a preset height for better growth and healthy tea leaves. We could see the workers pluck the leaves and collect in their baskets. Each basket was weighed before lunch and brought to the factory.
Two leaves and a bud
Meandering in the tea garden – heavenly!
We came back to the factory; the supervisor took us through the machinery and explained the functions. The factory remains closed for a period of 3 months and again opens with the first plucking. We could see the traditional machinery huge enough to manufacture tea for the world! In sometime, the leaves came in from various sectors of Makaibari. All the bags were weighed and put in the trough for withering. It generally takes 18 – 20 hours to wither using huge fans.
Withering trough – tea leaves being spread
Just like wine, tea-tasting is a completely sensual experience. All five senses are at once aroused and calmed down in a moment with the perfect cup of tea. It is known that the Queen of England takes a cup of Makaibari tea every morning. After an interesting and enriching session, we went into the café to have our cup of Silver Tips. We could witness the meticulous art of tea making by the locals of Darjeeling. It was perfectly brewed which awakened all our senses. We bid adieu to Makaibari on a very refreshing note and left for our journey onwards.
Makaibari tea café
Sukanya Das
A travel enthusiast by weekend and Business Analyst by weekday